Relayering the Indoor Bosses

This is a summary of the technique for relayering the bosses in the indoor range. It's a two-archer job, so please don't try it alone! If in doubt, ping Geoff, Steve or myself with questions.


You will need:

First, bring the boss you're working on down to the waiting area if people are trying to shoot while you're working.

Deciding what to do

Unhook the kevlar 'nappy' at the top only.

Take a look at the wear on the centre layers and work out which ones are best to replace them with. In this case, the top ones are in best condition, so we decide to put those in the centre, the centre ones at the top and the bottom ones will be simply reversed, as they are better at the back. If this has already been done once the layers are probably ready for replacement - which is beyond the scope of this process.

Removing the top

Standing on a stable chair, undo the nuts on top of the boss, you'll need two spanners as they should be locknutted together. Remove them - don't lose the washers! - and put them in a suitable pot somewhere safe.

Lift the wooden top off. You'll need someone at each end to lift it evenly, otherwise it tends to jam. Put it out of the way.

Pushing the straps through

Slide a hand through the layers at the point where you want to separate the top block, and push the tab end of two of the cargo straps through. Work one along so you have one about a quarter of the way in from each end. Do not lift the layers too high! If they come off the top they can fall out and restacking them from scattered is no fun.

Lifting the section off

Throw the buckle end of the straps over the top, making sure you know where your partner in crime is first! Tighten them securely so the layers don't slip when removed from the frame as they are rather flexible.

Lift them up and free of the frame, rotate them so the back now faces forwards, and put on the floor. Make sure you know which block is which!

Repeat this for each section in turn.

The blocks replaced, still strapped

Starting with the piece that's now to be the bottom section, and making sure that what was the back now faces forwards, lift the blocks and slide them back into the frame. Do not unstrap any until they're all in!

Note that without the top piece, the uprights tend to splay outwards, so you may need to push them back in. Make sure that the blocks line up to provide as even a front surface as possible.

Being careful that the uprights don't splay again, unbuckle the straps and gently slide them out.

Replacing the top

Return the top piece to the frame. You may need to push the uprights inwards to get it on, and you will have to pull it down - compressing the layers - to get enough visible thread to screw the nuts on. Don't forget the washers first!

Clip the 'nappy' back on at the top and you are done - except for hoovering up the inevitable bits of chopped foam that drop out during this process.

When we get to the point of replacing layers I'll come back to this article and redo it to include that part of the process.

The finished product!